For handy types, installing artificial grass shouldn’t be too difficult. Detailed instructions are available; many are specifically geared toward your specific circumstances. For instance, if you’re installing synthetic grass atop concrete, you can find directions for how to do so with ease. On the other hand, if you’re installing it over soil, you can follow instructions that are specific to that situation. If you’ve never installed synthetic grass before, it might seem a bit confusing at first; by taking your time, though, you can easily get the job done and have attractive artificial grass all set up on your own.
Artificial grass is virtually maintenance free. You no longer need to waste your weekends or evenings mowing, watering or fertilizing it. No more frustrating dry patches or bald patches. No more weeding or weed killing chemicals. Anyone with a shady yard will know of the headaches their real grass can cause, but this is no problem for our artificial turf. In fact, the only thing you need to do is keep it clean. The artificial grass system can be cleaned with any biodegradable cleaner or just rinsed off. In high traffic areas, it is common for the blades to flatten over time, but this can easily be remedied by gently brushing the fibers back into position using a soft brush or broom. Brushing in random directions is recommended to create a more natural look. All of the above procedures including removing debris and artificial grass cleaning are all jobs that the homeowner can simply complete.
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ArtificialTurfSupply.Com Professional Installation Manual
Guide Introduction:
The installation of artificial turf can be very simple and can add years of beauty to your home or business, as well as, a return on your investment in almost all cases. You can bet you will enjoy this experience, from selecting the correct artificial turf material to the finishing touches, which allow for many years of hassle and water free lawn.
After years of contractor and customer feedback from installations nationwide, Artificial Turf Supply has gathered and organized this information in order to provide you the most detailed and comprehensive installation guide in the artificial turf industry! All turf installation instructions are broken down into four key areas: Project Planning, Ground Preparation, Artificial Turf Installation and Artificial Turf Care.
The goal of the ATS Detailed Installation Guide is to address almost every issue experienced in the field and give you the latest installation and maintenance tips, as well as, techniques to help you save time and money.
ATS Disclosure:
This guide is for the individual or contractor who wish to self install their artificial turf project. Artificial Turf Supply makes no representations or warranties regarding the following installation information. This guide is a best effort to installing no-infill artificial turf and is not intended for some other specialized artificial turfs, not all results are guaranteed.
Time Line:
You should typically allow 2-3 days for most projects less than 1500 sq. ft. Additionally, projects may be competed faster depending on the size of your project crew or your experience.
ARTIFICIAL GRASS PLANNING & DESIGN
Installation Temperature:
Artificial Grass should be installed at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and above.
Project Tools:
Before installation you need to have the right tools for the artificial turf project. It is important to understand what each tool function is and how it works for your artificial turf installation. For most tools you can contact a tool rental company to rent the equipment, but most can be found and purchased or rented from your local home improvement stores. In many cases power tools can be substituted with hand tools, they may help make the process easier and more efficient. Below is a listing of all the tools applicable to synthetic turf.
List of Tools:
Sod Cutter , Shovel, Hoe, Wheelbarrow, Measuring Tape, Spray Paint or Chalk Line, Landscape Rake, Plate Compactor or Vibratory, Hand Roller or Plate Tamp, Trowel, Carpet Cutting knives or Razor Knife, Trimming Shears, Roof Flashing Tape or other seaming solution, Carpet Kicker, Hammer, Nailer boards or 60 (D) “Pole-Barn” Nails.
Design Size:
In order to determine the best size and shape design for your project, you have to keep in mind that all the artificial turfs are 15 FEET WIDE and up to 100 ft long. Artificial turf can be seamed together to create larger widths. The idea is to have the fewest amounts of seams as possible. Multiply the areas width and length based on 15 foot width rolls. This is how much turf you will need for your area. Your turf order should always be 15 foot wide by your determined lineal (Length) feet. Please make sure you allow for extra turf for any trimming and seaming. Please make sure that you measure at least twice and review your measurement with an Artificial Turf Supply consultant. Additionally, the turf weighs about one half pound per square foot. To determine the weight of your artificial turf roll; divide the total square footage of each roll in half. For Example 750 sq ft divided in half is 375 Pounds. NOTE: Artificial Turf comes on a carpet roll.
Bordering:
For most borders you can use nailer board, bender boards or your imagination. Some contractors have folded the turf over onto itself but this is not recommended in most cases. Make sure to take note of the borders of where the turf will go and determine which curbing you will use and what edging techniques will be applied. If you are planning on installing any edging, curbing or borders, please install prior to cutting the turf in order to get a more precise measurement.
If there is existing curbing or edging make sure that you measure perfectly in between the inside area of each of the borders.
ATS Hot Tip:
Some edging or bordering options that will enhance the appearance of your synthetic grass application are to add a nice frame around the turf: Curbing, decorative rock, mulch and treks boards are several ideas that will work nicely.
Vegetation:
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If your installation is going around trees, bushes, or any utilities such as light poles and air conditioning units, you must mark around these areas in order to account for the turf edges. Typically you should allow a 6” radius area uncovered around the bases of any trees, bushes and structures.
WARNING: Please check for any wells or electrical that may be located in project area.
Current Irrigation:
Check your area for irrigation heads. Once identified, be sure to cap them off or have them removed.
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Turf Direction:
Because the artificial turf is directional, you must make note of the fibers directions (grain). Determine which direction you will roll out your turf and how the turf will be laid down and seamed. Most projects tend to face towards the viewers perspective. If possible, you must always apply the turf with the fibers of the turf against the slope of your application area. Once you have made your decision on what direction your turf will go make sure to always run the fibers in the same direction. If you do not lay the turf, with the fibers going the same direction, the seams of your project will stick out and be too obvious.
Artificial Turf Selection:
Now that we have our tools, design, bordering, turf direction and structures in mind we can begin the process of selection which turf you will use for your project. Typically for a residential and commercial application, Artificial Turf Supply recommends a turf model that does not require any infill for installation. These artificial grasses are typically called, “NO-INFILL” turfs and have a face weight of 73 ounces or more. This will eliminate the need to purchase any infill in order to make the fibers stand up. However, an infill can still be used, if desired, in order to emulate softer soil, handle heavy usage or to add extra cushioning for an impact zone.
GROUND PREPERATION
Measuring & Outline:
Measure the width and length of each area by using irrigation flags or landscape stakes. Then use spray paint or chalk to mark your turf rolls. Note the direction you have decided to lay the turf when you did your planning.
Removing Topsoil:
Utilizing a sod cutter, hoe or shovel to cut grass, sod or any other unwanted vegetation from your marked areas will make it easy to roll up and remove sod or any other topsoil that is currently in your project area. Also remove any large rocks or roots that are unwanted. The typical depth of a sod cutter is set at 2-3 inches. However, some colder regions of the country may need to excavate up to 4 inches due to the need for more base material to address cold weather ground expansion and contraction. Do not forget to leave a 6″ radius around trees, bushes or any shrubs.
Rough Grading:
With a landscape rake, rough grade your turf application areas. Then use a garden hose to lightly water the areas and then compact the area with a plate compactor or a heavy drum roller. Keep making passes over the project area until you have ensured that your compaction is acceptable. 95% compaction is recommended.
ATS Hot Tip: If your area has a high clay concentrate or is too moist and wet, then spread a small layer of crushed stone over the area before you do your compacting or use Geotextiles. Geotextiles are permeable fabrics which, when used in association with soil, have the ability to separate, filter, reinforce, protect, or drain. Typically made from polypropylene or polyester, Geotextile fabrics come in three basic forms: woven (looks like mail bag sacking), needle punched (looks like felt), or heat bonded (looks like ironed felt). If there is any water that comes to the surface or standing water, then use a Geotextile fabric to separate the sub-base from the softer soils.
WARNING: Make sure your area maintains at least a 1% grade to allow for proper drainage.
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Weed Killer:
It is a good idea, once the ground in completely cleared, to apply a weed killer and a grass blocker spray to the area. You need to ensure that any vegetation will not grow under the turf area in the future. You may also use a weed barrier material by cutting it to size and use sod staples to hold it in place.
Edging Installation:
Once the area has been cleared and the weed killer is applied, it is time to install your selected edging.
Base Type:
The purpose of base material is simple; it is your drainage for the artificial turf system, while providing a solid ground to walk on. The base allows the turf to drain up to 12 inches of water per hour in most cases. The most current feedback we have from contractors nationwide is to use a 3/4″ down to 1/4″ crushed drain rock as your primary base and then to use the fines (Smaller Parts) as a top coat that can help with drainage and the way the turf may feel under the feet. These rocks can be found at your local rock yards and may have several different names. You want to avoid using a rounded rock, like some pea gravels, as they will not compact well and are too rounded. Some common names for the base rock material are Crushed Stone, Breeze Rock, Chat, Decomposed Granite (DG), crusher fine gravel, Class 2 Aggregate or Class 2 Road base.
ATS Hot Tip: Home owners and Pet Facilities have experienced faster and better drainage of dog urine in order to reduce odor with a 3/4″ rock.
Base Depth:
Although sub-base heights may vary from project to project, the standard recommended base is 4″ below finish grade for outdoor projects. However, because of different weather from region to region, we recommend that for arid climates the sub-base may be as low as two (2″) inches and the sub-base for climates with high water tables or rainfall may have a base up to six (6”) inches. Additionally, in colder climates the ground will often expand and contract with freezing ground, it will be important to have a minimum of a 4″ base for these applications.
Base Application:
Now that you know what base you are using and the depth is established, you can place your order for your sub-base rock based on the following formula; 1 TON (2,000 LBS) of rock base per 100 Square Feet of artificial turf will give you a 2″ sub-base. Spread the sub-base material around the area and then even the sub-base using the back of a bow rake or similar yard tool.
Grading:
Using a sod roller or plate compactor type tool, you will tightly compact the sub-base up to 95%. The goal is to have the sub-base as smooth as possible, yet solid when walked upon. Do not accept a base that is compacted less than 85%. In order to achieve this compaction you may have to wet the area, without too much saturation, re-compact several times until level and at the recommended grade of 1%.This should allow water runoff the proper drainage. Basically, you can contour the areas to meet your drainage requirements. For those areas with depressions, simply add a small amount of screening or stone dust material until compacted level. However you must not use a compactor for these areas with screenings but must compact it with a roller. All bumps and holes should be eliminated from your sub-base, best as you can, because the undulation on the surface will be visible once the turf is applied. This whole process will allow you to get the exact finish level of the artificial turf. You may have to repeat the process a few times, so please allow sub-base to dry then check for any inconsistencies and make adjustments to the areas with fines or screenings. Repeat until satisfied, however, the base does not have to be absolutely perfect to have a successful installation. The final base should be 1 1/2″ below the top of your border. Use the smooth side of a trowel to compact any sub-base build up around any corners or edges.
WARNING: To avoid creating ridges in the sub-base, avoid making sharp turns with the plate compactor. Additionally, try not to walk on the surface once you have it leveled and prepared, if so you are advised to walk flat-footed. Additionally, make sure that all heavy machinery does not drive over the newly prepared sub-base.
ARTIFICIAL TURF INSTALLATION
Turf Preparation:
Roll the turf out over a clean flat surface or the prepared base, but make sure not to drag it across the sub-base. Additionally, if you have a seam or another roll of turf, you want to make sure that the fiber blades of artificial turf are going the same direction you had in your planning design so the two pieces match up. It is important to let the artificial turf sit out in the sun for a couple of hours. This allows the fibers to begin to stand upright and relax from being rolled up and will also allow any wrinkles to settle in the backing. Once relaxed, lay your turf accordingly and for areas that will have seams, cut off the un-tufted (selvedge) edge of one roll and lay it to the base in your intended direction then lay your next artificial turf roll adjacent to first one and overlap one edge of the adjacent roll on top of the first artificial roll with the trimmed edge.
ATS Hot Tip: Your turf roll(s) are coming on a 4″ wide cardboard carpet roll 15 feet long and wrapped in protective heavy duty plastic. The weight of your turf is half a pound per square foot. (SQ FT of turf roll divided by 2 = Weight).
WARNING: Although the turf is delivered to the shipping address, make sure that you have enough working crew to help the delivery driver get your turf roll(s) off of the delivery truck.
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WARNING: Be careful and DO NOT Cut through any of the artificial turf that may be underneath the part you are cutting
ATS Hot Tip: Artificial Turf Supply is aware that there are several third party seaming solution products available on the market. However many of these products, such as tape with glue or tar, may not last the lifespan of the turf and could be pulled apart as well as it can be difficult to remove adhesives that may get on the artificial turf fibers accidentally. Instead we would recommend that you go to your local hardware supply store and in the roofing department you can purchase six (6”) inch wide aluminum roof flashing that comes 50 feet long and will not require any adhesives. Roof flashing will typically cost $30-$40 per 50 feet.
Turf Seaming:
For those artificial grass projects requiring seams, this is probably the most critical part of the installation process in order to make your artificial turf product look realistic. It is always a good idea to practice the seaming process before you seam your project area. Make sure that you take your time when seaming your project. Remember to trim the un-tufted edge off one of your rolls. By now your base should be completed and your turf rolled out onto the base. Now mark the areas where your seam will be with chalk a chalk line. Place the roof flashing down on chalk lines where you will have your seams. Nail in two of the 60 D nails at the end of each roof flashing seam to hold it in place. Next you will prepare the turf by cutting both edges of the rolls to be seamed.
ATS Hot Tip: Using six (6”) long 60 D Galvanized Nails, preferably with a ribbed or spiral shank. Other acceptable options are landscape spikes, sod staples and timber spikes. If you cannot locate nails in your area please contact an Artificialturfsupply.com representative.
Using your cutting tool (Loop Pile Cutter or Razor Knife) you want to cut as close to the second tuft row as possible. This eliminates waste and should give you the proper edges for seaming. Place the first roll to be seamed half way (3”) onto the roof flashing. Next, nail down the roll one (1”) inch back and every six (6”) inches with your 60 D nails. When this is completed you should have the roll completely nailed down along the roof flashing and three (3”) inches of roof flashing should still be exposed for your remaining roll to be seamed. The next step is to make sure the turf is going the appropriate direction and bring the edge of your second roll of turf to the roof flashing, leaving just a small space (9/16 of an inch usually) between the two pieces. This keeps the two turf edges from bunching up if you get them too close. Bring the edges together until the distance between them looks good to you. Secure the second roll by again nailing down the second roll one (1”) inch back and every six (6”) inches with your 60 D nails; however you should stagger the nails so the seam is secured like a zipper instead of the nails being across from each other.
There are a few other seaming solutions available in the market place, such as seaming tape that requires tar or glue. These methods can also be use in the following way:
Roll out seam tape the whole length of the seam. Apply tar or adhesive. Apply edges of each turf roll edges, lying in same direction. Add weight down the length of the seam or use a heavy roller. The drying time for adhesives will vary.
WARNING: Some adhesives for tape require time for vapors to release
This process should be simple, but any other questions or concerns should be addressed by your Artificial Turf Supply specialist.
Perimeter:
Secure the perimeter with your 6” inch galvanized nails every 6-10 inches around the edges is one option, but there are a few other options as well. For securing turf in areas that are curved, typically you would excavate a really narrow trench around the perimeter so that you can then bury the edges of the artificial grass and then you could backfill it with base material, decorative rock, and mulch, straw or other.
Another option for high traffic areas is to use a 4” x 4” piece of pressure treated wood and bury it into the edge area and using heave duty staples, staple the artificial turf every 6”-8” inches to the wood.
You can use Nailer Board when you are installing next to asphalt or concrete. Simply use concrete nails to secure the Nailer Board and then the artificial grass can be nailed to the Nailer Board using a nail.
Finishing Touches:
Using a leaf blower, broom or plastic rake you can quickly clean up the area and this also helps agitate the blades of artificial grass helping the stand up better.
Infill Optional:
Although this manual is intended for No-Infill Artificial Turfs, you still have the option to add infill (crumb rubber particle or ½ to 1 Lb. of crumb rubber mixed with a minimum of 3 pounds of sand) to those areas that you may consider high traffic areas or fall zones for play structures. However, you will NOT NEED TO ADD INFILL to your residential or commercial turf to make the blades of artificial grass stand up and look natural.
ARTIFICIAL TURF CARE
Turf Care:
Although, artificial grass is virtually maintenance free, you will need to care for your lawn in the following ways to help maximize the life span or your artificial lawn: Reefer Madness: The Movie Musical full movie
Typically, with a no infill turf, you will use a push broom if you do not have a rake or blower to care for your artificial turf. You should blow off or rake your grass once per month to maximize its look, but this is not required for all projects. Once every 3 months the artificial grass should be brushed with a push broom against the grain to help eliminate any debris and dust as well as stabilize the fibers.
Water can be used to spray and clean up after any spills. You may also try a mild detergent, especially with pets. Additionally, in areas where the temperature is over 100 degrees, water should be used to cool off the grass for children if the grass gets too hot. However, the shade areas of the turf will be always be cool enough for play.
I was surprised when the roll of turf arrived a couple days ahead of my estimate. The trucking company did a good job keeping me posted.
The material came wrapped and in good condition. Let people know to have a couple of helpers available and to position the roll as close to the installation site as possible. MichaelI made some notes for a friend of mine. Use them however you want. mc
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D-I-Y Installation of Artificial Turf
Considerations -
Site and site prep
Tools
Labor & abilities
Materials
My thinking on stuff
Site and site prep
I decided to install turf (650 sf.) in my level yard in California -
Annual rainfall about 20 inches;
Max. one day rainfall about one inch.
No winter freeze.
The area is an irregular shape with curves and straights.
There are sprinklers and some low-voltage lighting installed.
Tools
I had most tools but found the following to be most helpful.
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One wheelbarrow/cart – I have a medium size Scotts cart with four wheels
One sand tamper – about 10 lbs.
One decent corded drill with assortment of good quality bits.
One earth auger/drill bit
One workmate-type vise table
One of those 36″ picker-upper things to reduce bending.
A magnet on a stick helps with recovering dropped screws.
One good adjustable hose nozzle
One banged-up pick-up truck
Labor & abilities
I am semi-retired, 57, overweight and not very flexible (knees especially).
I count myself as 1/3 of a laborer & much of the brainpower.
I hired two day-laborers for about five days.
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Communication is important – make sure at least one of the laborers speaks your language.
I speak Spitalianglish – English mixed with Spanish and Italian – quite comical at times.
Time & schedule
Be realistic – as a first time effort, my 650 sf. took about 5 full days.
Now that I have some experience, I could probably do a similar job in 4 days.
The time can be split up, but anything less than 4 hours at a time doesn’t accomplish much.
Watch the weather – I hit a heat wave which has an impact.
Materials
I used five 16 2×6 pressure-treated boards for the long runs. These are HEAVY.
Smaller 2×4 pressure-treated boards made up cross pieces.
I used fill of 3/8″ pea-gravel and #2 Olympia sand.
I bought these at Lyngso in Redwood City, CA in self-fill bags. About $5/bag
Lyngso has the bags. Save by reusing bags and tell them BEFORE you pay.
It took 80 bags (60 gravel, 20 sand). These are heavy too, 4 trips.
The total weight per square foot is 8-10 pounds – near 5 tons total.
I bought the medium weight turf with curly thatch (it really hides the screws).
Wafer headed screws for the turf – #6, 8, & 10 for wood and metals
12″ wooden gardening spikes (for lateral clamping).
Weed barrier fabric
Colored painters tape
35 feet of one-inch manila rope
40 metal connector plates (4″ x 7″)
My thinking on stuff
I decided to create a grid of pressure-treated 2x4s and 2x6s tied together with thin metal plates. No nails – everything screwed for strength and safety. I did not want anything popping up later, so I used lots of screws.
This allowed workable areas of about 70 sf. each with level boundaries for screeding.
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After the lumber was installed, I drilled about 50 nine-inch deep holes with the earth auger.
These holes were filled with nine-inch lengths of manila rope and will allow water percolation.
Then position the gravel – water and tamp over and over.
Don’t be stingy, this stuff will settle over time but the lumber will not.
Bring the gravel level with the boards.
Add sand, water and tamp over and over.
Make the wood and materials as even as possible.
Edges butting up to concrete should be about ¼” lower to allow the turf to sit right.
Backfill with a bit of sand as needed
Used colored tape to mark board positions on concrete. Use these later with a taut line when screwing.
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Cover everything with weed barrier before laying turf.
I overbought on turf a little to ensure that I reduced seams to one long straight one.
Measure twice or more before cutting.
When I did cut, it was not the final cut immediately.
I did a progression of trimming as I positioned and fastened down the turf.
The progressive trimming reduced weight and allowed progress tightening.
Lots of double-checking while trimming – costs nothing extra to check.
The wafer head screws did a good job securing the fabric to the wood.
If I need to I can unscrew areas for more sand, etc.
Make sure the turf orientation on abutting pieces is the same.
The butt seam shows and I am working on that.
I think the two pieces pressing against each other causes the darker color by pushing two blades against each other.
I plan on waiting a few days and then doing some fine scissor cutting to remove some individual blades.
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I think this approach will do the trick
I oriented the whole area so that the best looking angle faced the part of the backyard most used (South).
I used bags of gravel/sand instead of a dumped delivery because I didn’t know how much would be needed.
I made sure to top them off at the material yard since the charge is for the bag and not by weight.
The bags were useful as pre-measured units for estimating additional purchases and for filling the cart.
Using bags instead of a bulk dump allowed me to keep my driveway open.
Doing the job myself let me make changes on the spot like using the overage material to push up under trees and bushes. If later I don’t like the look, I can re-trim back to the original line.
I pay my guys $15/hour (cash at the end of each day) – they work hard and do a good job.
I work alongside doing small stuff that speeds things up.
Two was a good number for me to work with. I wouldn’t go with more than three.
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They will save you a lot of money versus having a contractor do the job.
I tried to have some other jobs (watering, minor gardening) ready to utilize time gaps.
I also provide lots of cold drinks, sometimes cold watermelon.
I usually provide early lunch (hamburger/burrito) to ensure the guys had eaten that day.
These guys don’t have much and some food and drink helps.
I don’t want to be concerned that a missed meal will be a problem.
The turf ran about $4 a sf. delivered. I figure another $5 a foot for everything else.
Final cost was $6,000 for the job versus about $10,000 using a contractor.
Questions?
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ArtificialTurfSupply.com makes it easy for you to get an artificial turf grass quote right from your computer.
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You can always be assured of our dedication to providing you with the most competitive pricing and exceptional value.
All of our artificial turf grass measures 15 foot in width and are available in any length, however, rolls with lengths over 60 feet are challenging to move without the proper man power or the help of a forklift. When measuring the area you have designated for your new artificial turf grass system, it is important to think in widths of 15′ and multiply accordingly. Rolls of turf can be seamed together successfully to create widths of 30′, 45′, 60′, etc. The length can be as long as you wish – ArtificialTurfSupply.com is able to cut the turf to any length. Pricing for our turf is determined upon volume and product line selected, but can easily be calculated automatically using our Get a Quote form.
Questions?
As always, the consultants at ArtificialTurfSupply.com are eager to help in any way we can. Please contact us if you have any questions. You can reach us by phone, 706.659.4513, or online with our Contact Us form.
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Easy Install Guide
The installation of synthetic grass is very simple and will add years of beauty as well as value to your home or business. We hope you enjoy the whole experience from purchasing the material to the finishing touches. Enjoy the years of maintenance free grass and beauty that will last virtually forever.
ATS Hot Tip: Some options that will enhance the appearance of your synthetic grass application are to add a nice frame around the turf: curbing, decorative rock, and mulch are several ideas that will work nicely.
Ground Preparation/Sub Grade
STEP 1: We recommend clearing any existing grass or vegetation you may have in the desired application area. (A few basic tools that can aide in the excavation are a sod cutter, hoe, or shovel.)
STEP 2: It is a good idea once the ground is completely cleared to apply a weed killer and a grass blocker spray to the area. You want to ensure that any vegetation will not grow under the turf area in the future.
STEP 3: Once all vegetation has been removed you are ready to apply the crushed stone aggregate. (We recommend a 2″-3″ layer of a ¼- crushed stone, you can purchase this at your local home improvement store, or building supply warehouse).
STEP 4: Once the crushed stone is applied, you will want to make sure the base is as level as possible. (A plate compactor or sod roller may be useful in this step of the turf application process. The goal in this step is to make the stone aggregate tightly compacted and as level as possible.)
NOTE: It is important to remember that the turf will be applied on top of this crushed stone base, thus any undulation on the surface will be visible once the turf has been applied. Also important to remember is that the crushed stone will aid in the drainage properties of the system, so a slight slope is recommended for proper drainage.
Cut and Fit…to Perfection
STEP 5: Once you have laid the stone base you will want to roll out the turf according to your area measurements. (It is important to lay the turf with all grass fibers or blades going in the same direction. This will ensure that all pieces of turf match up.) *This step may not apply if you do not have multiple pieces or sections of turf.
STEP 6: Make cuts in the turf using a standard carpet knife to fit the turf to desired area. (You are essentially cutting the turf to create the exact shape of your area. The fewer pieces of turf used the better; this will eliminate seaming pieces together.)
STEP 7: In the event you need to seam the turf together we recommend a 4″-6″ indoor/outdoor carpet seaming tape. The tape is used to attach the pieces of turf together, not to secure it to the aggregate. Center the seaming tape along the edges. To do this, lift one side of the turf and adhere the seaming tape to it, gently lay the taped portion of the turf back down, place the adjoining seam on the centered tape and apply pressure (by walking) over the area. Check to make sure there isn’t any overlapping or bunching of the tape or turf.
STEP 8: To attach the turf to the earth you will want to use 6″-8″ carpet staples. (These are essentially long nails.) Drive in the staples 1″ from the turf edge and every 6″ along the turf perimeter. It is a good idea to start at one side of the application area so you can pull the turf tight from the other side. This process is the most important, so your turf is attached securely and properly. Drive in the staples around the perimeter of the area and on both sides of any seams. This ensures that the seam will not come up and the material is properly fixed to the earth. Remember, the carpet staples hold the edges of the turf in place, while the infill will actually weight the material down.
Finishing Touches
STEP 9*: The final step is to add the infill material of your choice. (The main purpose of the infill is to give the turf its’ soft and life-like characteristics while weighting down the turf. We recommend a 100% Recycled Crumb Rubber or Play Sand infill. Whichever infill you choose, we recommend using approximately 1 lb of infill material per square foot of turf.)
STEP 9a*: You will want to evenly apply the infill material on top of the turf with a drop spreader or your hands.
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STEP 9b*: Next, you will want to use a soft to medium bristled push broom to work the infill material into the turf. Keep working the infill material into the turf until the turf begins to stand upright. If you do not see the results you want, a flat-head rake is a good tool to use as well.
NOTE: It is important to make sure that you brush the infill material against the grain of the turf; this allows the infill to work its way to the base of the fibers correctly. This is the precision step; you must brush in the infill evenly so its appearance is consistent. A simple check to make sure it’s even is to walk over the turf, and your feet will tell you if it’s even or not. Work the infill in the turf until desired appearance is achieved.
*Steps 9, 9a and 9b can be omitted for applications using our no-infill products
Recommended Tools
The installation can be easily completed with a few everyday tools. Many of the following can be purchased or rented at a local home improvement store like Home Depot or Lowes.
• Sod Cutter
• Plate Compactor
• Seaming Tape
• Flat Head Rake
• Push Broom
• 6″-8″ Nails
• Carpet Knife